Photo Journal – Las Vegas: Fountains, Christmas Lights & The $120 Gamble

I've been to Las Vegas more times than I care to admit.  It's always been my "go-to" place when I wanted a quick break from the everyday rat race.  If I played my cards right (get it?), I could get a flight on Southwest for $59 each way from Denver, hotels were ridiculously cheap if you didn't mind slumming it a bit on the strip, and the $5.99 prime rib dinner was always on the menu somewhere.  I actually had aspirations of trying to become a professional poker player in my late twenties.  All that stuff is out the window now and Vegas is nothing like it used to be.  These days, the nightly "resort fees" are higher than the actual room rates were, that $6 steak is now $60, and I'm lucky to find a flight out here for less than $300.  Still, there's just something about the city that calls me back, albeit much less often these days.  This particular trip was different though. I decided to come on this trip strictly to take photographs. I had a few specific shots in mind and wanted to see if Vegas still had something new to offer my portfolio.

Vegas is an interesting city to photograph. It’s instantly recognizable and endlessly photographed, which makes it both inspiring and a little frustrating. Finding something that feels personal or worth adding to a fine art collection is not easy. That challenge was a big part of the appeal of this trip.

Hotel Strategy: Starting at the Venetian, Aiming for the Cosmopolitan

I usually stay at the Venetian when I’m in Vegas. It’s centrally located, easy to navigate, has some solid restaurants, and gives you quick access to a lot of the Strip without feeling overwhelming. I booked one night there to start the trip.

For the remaining two nights, I moved over to the Cosmopolitan. Honestly, the vibe there is not really my thing, but it offers something very rare in Vegas: unobstructed balcony rooms that overlook the Bellagio fountains and the Strip.

These rooms are some of the only places in Vegas where you can photograph the Strip without shooting through thick glass or tinted windows. Many iconic images were taken from these balconies, and I wanted to finally experience that vantage point for myself.  The problem is that fountain view rooms at the Cosmo are crazy expensive, even during slower periods.

So instead of booking one outright, I did what any reasonable photographer would do: I gambled. I booked a standard room and crossed my fingers for an upgrade at check-in.

Why December Made Sense

I specifically chose mid-December for this trip for two reasons. Historically, it’s one of the slower (and cheaper) times of year to visit Vegas. I had also read reports suggesting crowds were lighter than usual, so I thought I had a better chance for at an upgrade.

The second reason was Christmas. I’m a huge fan of the Christmas season, and the Bellagio Conservatory during the holidays is hard to beat.

As it turned out, Vegas was a lot busier than expected, but the Christmas decorations absolutely delivered.

Day 1: When Paris is Just Across the Street

I arrived in Vegas on Saturday afternoon, dropped my bags at the Venetian, and immediately headed across the street to Paris Las Vegas. I like how in Vegas, you can literally walk from Italy to France in about five minutes. My first shooting location was the Eiffel Tower observation deck for sunset, and the sky was looking pretty promising. During the elevator ride up, the bored sounding employee told me how this was exactly half the height of the real Eiffel Tower.  They had originally planned to make it exactly the same size and scale, but apparently that wasn't allowed because it's too close to the airport. There's your fun fact for today. 

Tickets were a bit hard to swallow at about $32, but once you’re up there, you can stay as long as you want. I expected a heavy Saturday night crowd, but when I arrived about 20 minutes before sunset, there were only a handful of people up top.  Granted, sunset in December is around 4:30pm, and most people probably hadn't even woken up yet from partying the night before.

This is a great location for Strip photography, especially looking down at the Bellagio fountains.  You get a great 360 degree view of the whole strip from this vantage point. The downside is that the deck is fully enclosed in metal grating. There are a few strategically placed square openings around to take photographs, but you can't really adjust your camera angles much.  My lenses barely squeezed through and there wasn't much wiggle room, so you sort of get what you get.  The resulting shots weren't as symmetrical as I would've liked, but the nice clouds and color made up for it.

I stuck around until it became full dark so I could also photograph the fountains with the city fully aglow. Once I reviewed those photos, I realized my first challenge for the trip.  Basically, the Bellagio fountains at night are extremely bright. The largest fountain bursts turned into yellow mush in my photographs in full darkness. In the end, I settled for the blue hour shot above.  Sure, I lost out on some of the colorful glow that Vegas is known for, but I knew I had a couple of more nights to try and capture it. It was a worthwhile stop, and a useful lesson for the rest of the trip.

"The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see."

G.K. Chesterton

Day 2: The Great Room Upgrade Failure

Check-in day at the Cosmopolitan. I purposely arrived at around 2:00 PM (an hour before the official check-in time) thinking there may be more availability before the throngs arrived.  I brought out my best polite optimism and asked about fountain view availability.  No luck.

What surprised me most was how busy Vegas felt. Despite all the talk I'd seen on Facebook about lighter crowds, the Strip (and especially this hotel) felt as packed as ever.  This was right after the National Finals Rodeo had just wrapped, and the crowds were still thick. My hopes of a cheap or free upgrade were officially dashed.

Slightly disappointed but not defeated, I dropped off my stuff at my 22nd floor room with a view of several massive, retina-busting digital signs (see below) and walked over to MGM Grand for dinner at Craftsteak.  If you're ever in Vegas and want to experience what a perfect steak tastes like, do yourself a favor and book a table. It was unbelievably good, the kind of meal that makes you question every other steak you've ever eaten.  Just make sure to bring an empty stomach and a full wallet.

After dinner, I Uber-ed back to the hotel, waddled up to my room, and called it an early night.  An early morning shoot was coming.

Day 3: Christmas Magic Before the Crowds

I set the alarm for 5:30 AM to get to the Bellagio Conservatory and Botanical Gardens before it filled up. Thanks to the second floor walkway connecting the Cosmopolitan to Bellagio, the walk was quick and easy. I arrived a little after 6:00 AM.

There were still more people than I expected at that hour, but it was manageable.

I case you're unaware, the Bellagio Conservatory is a massive indoor garden that completely transforms several times a year. Everything is built around seasonal themes using flowers, plants, water features, and sculptural elements. It’s free, open 24 hours, and one of the most impressive experiences on the Strip.  It naturally draws huge crowds, so arriving early in the morning is best if you want to be able to move.

I’ve visited the conservatory several times in the past, including other trips around Christmas. It never gets old. If you like holiday decorations and lights, it’s hard to beat. Trains circle massive Christmas trees. Water features run through the displays. Christmas music fills the space. And somehow, despite the crowds, it still feels special.  Every year it’s different, and every year it’s a constant wow moment.  If you ever have trouble getting into the holiday spirit like I do, this place will get you there.

I wandered around taking photos and soaking up the magic for about 90 minutes before it started to get crowded.  I even met a professional local photographer who gave me some fun composition ideas.  All in all, I'm not sure if any of these shots will make it into the portfolio or not, but I definitely left this place with a smile on my face. If you're ever in Vegas any time of year, this place is an absolute must-see.

If you'd like to see more photos I took at the conservatory, please check out the full gallery.

The Glass Ceiling Masterpiece

Just beyond the conservatory is the Bellagio lobby, home to Dale Chihuly’s glass sculpture, Fiori di Como.

I’ve walked under it several times before and always thought "wow, that's pretty" and moved on with my day. This time, I stopped and really looked at it as a photographer.

The sculpture is made up of thousands of hand blown glass flowers covering the ceiling. Early morning was the perfect time to photograph it. The lobby was quiet, the light was soft, and there was room to experiment.

Shooting straight up at the ceiling is a bit of a challenge when you're handholding, but there were tables nearby that worked well as makeshift tripods. Once you start paying attention to the shapes and colors, it’s easy to lose track of time.  Sometimes the most beautiful things are the ones you've seen many times before but never really looked at.

"The details are not the details. They make the design."

Charles Eames

The $120 Gamble That Paid Off

After the morning shoot, I got myself back in line at the Cosmo at around 11:00 AM for one last-ditch effort to see if I could get a room upgrade.  There were 30+ people in line to check IN at 11:00 AM, even though official check-in isn't until 3:00 PM. So much for Vegas being dead, right?

I smiled and explained my story to the gentleman at the counter.  I told him I was a photographer and it was my life's dream to be able to take that iconic fountain and strip shot. Ok, maybe I wasn't quite that dramatic, but he promised to make a call and see what he could do. Meanwhile, the lady checking in next to me (who didn't even ask for an upgrade) was being told that she had been upgraded to a stunning fountain view suite with a Japanese soaking tub overlooking the Bellagio fountains, at absolutely no charge. Furthermore, this particular room wasn't even available to book online. It was only able to be reserved for guests at the front desk. My hopes soared.

Shortly after, my representative hung up the phone and turned to me.  "Sure, I can get you a fountain view room!  That'll be $120, sir."  I sighed and handed over my credit card.  I'm all too familiar with how the Vegas comp system works. The high rollers get the perks!  Still, I can't complain.  $120 was still way less than the extra I would've had to pay to get that room at the regular rates.  I excitedly headed to the elevator and my new room on the 60th floor with a massive balcony overlooking the Bellagio fountains, the Eiffel Tower, the Sphere, and pretty much everything else down the north side of the Strip.

Worth it.

Final Evening: Letting Go a Little

I spent most of my last day catching up on work, admiring the view, and preparing for the evening shoot. I took a few daytime test shots to lock in my composition and waited for sunset.

Based on my experience at the Eiffel Tower, I was cautious about shooting the fountains again. The brightest "bursts" had completely blown out earlier in the trip, so my plan was to be more selective this time.  As it got darker though, exposures grew longer, and that plan was out the window. I ended up madly clicking the shutter throughout the fountain shows and hoped for the best.

In the end, I walked away with a few images I am genuinely happy with. Not everything worked, but enough did to make it worthwhile.

The Morning That Didn’t Happen

I planned to wake up early again on my last morning to revisit the conservatory, but with an early flight and limited time, it felt too rushed. I would have had maybe 30 to 45 minutes tops.  So I snoozed the alarm, got some extra sleep, and headed to the airport instead.

No regrets.

Wrapping It Up

All in all, it was a solid trip. I came home with some good images, a healthy dose of Christmas spirit, and a longer list of things I want to shoot next time.

Vegas isn’t a city you finish photographing. It’s one you keep coming back to. This trip checked off a few long-standing goals and added a few new ones.

I’ll take that.

"We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us."

Anonymous